Dolce Vita- Ugly but Good

By Judy Witts Francini FoodConnect Tuscany divinacucina@gmail.com I adore pastries, having been a pasty chef in a previous life. When I arrived in Florence, I was a little disappointed in the selection of cookies at the local bakery. Later I found out that there are different sweets prepared by pastry shops and others by bakeries. My first “tasting” was from a local bakery where I bought a whole tray of cookies, choosing two or three of each type. Imagine my face when I realized they were all made from the same recipe for the dough, just given different shapes. Now that I speak the language, I have been able to avoid making mistakes like that. There are several basic recipes, a sort of short pastry, like a rich pie crust and a marzipan style cookie. Tuscany is also famous for the classic Biscotti di Prato, made without butter and whole toasted almonds. The dough is baked once in ropes, then re-baked once they have been cut into the traditional shape; (bis-cotto means cooked twice). But in the quest for my favorite cookie I have found a couple that I really love. Ricciarelli from Siena are the almond based cookie, shaped like a diamond and much less sweet than marzipan. The other cookie is harder to find and not always the same. Brutti ma Buoni are made from ground nuts, walnuts, almonds or hazelnuts, mixed with egg whites and sugar. What makes these special is that they are first cooked on top of the stove and then formed into ugly little lumps and baked in the oven. I love the crispy outside and the soft nutty inside. For those who are allergic to flour, these are your new cookie! As with many Italian recipes, making them in America may take a couple of tries. The ingredients vary. This recipe is based on a ratio of nuts to sugar and egg whites, so I am giving the recipe in weight! Break out the scale! Brutti Ma Buoni- Twice-Cooked Meringue Cookie 300 grams 1 1/2 cups toasted nuts, ground ( almonds, hazelnuts or walnuts) 250 grams/ 1 cup sugar 125 grams/ 1/2 cup egg whites cinnamon or vanilla ( for flavoring if you like) To grind the nuts, you can use a nut grinder or your food processor. Try not to leave large pieces, you are trying to make more of a flour. ( I can buy ground almond flour and have seen it in the states too) Whip egg whites to a soft peak. Slowly fold in the sugar and the ground nuts. Heat in a saucepan until golden. Place large teaspoons of batter on a buttered cookie sheet and bake for 35 minutes at 300 degrees or until golden.