by Luke McKinney
FoodConnect Toronto
luke.mckinney@foodconnect.com

The name is the only thing less than genuine about this restaurant in the heart of Korea town. Everything else speaks of authenticity - the salt-shakers full of chilli, the old nationals ordering their favorite for the hundredth time, the friendly but barely-English speaking waitresses (numbered menus save the day again) - and most importantly, the food.

Bloor Street features a wealth of Korean restaurants west of Bathurst - the fact that the place is called "Korea Town" is your first clue - and as well as the distinctive chunky characters on all the signs you have a lot of spicy food to choose from. But this wealth of eateries leads to great specialization, not bitter competition - rather than the huge menus Chinese restaurants often pride themselves on, each location focuses on what they're good at.

Corean Chilli has no Bi Bim Bap, nor any Korean grill - which many main street eaters may think is all Korean food consists of. Instead there's a specific selection of chef specials, and if you don't like what's there you're welcome to go elsewhere. But don't worry, Korean fans, the Kimche is good - the stirfry with pork is particularly nice, combining sizzling flavors and crunchy textures.

Even the "Sweet & Spicy Chicken" is great, and that's the most westernised-sounding thing on the menu. At first glance it could be a plate of deep-fried chicken from any not-really-Asian joint, but the flavors are deeper and better than any "fry it for five then serve it to the idiots" location. There are hints and spices, enjoyable aftertastes and a lot more to this meal than you're normally used to - and plenty of it!

Short form: arrive, read the menu, point clearly at what you want, and tuck in. Repeat as needed.