by Claudia Kwan, FoodConnect contributor
claudia@foodconnect.com

The paper has been taken off the windows and the last of the construction dust has been wiped up—Tequila Kitchen in Vancouver’s Yaletown neighborhood is fully ready for business.

The idea is to serve the Mexican cuisine currently being dished out in fine dining restaurants way down south, so you can get rid of your fear of iceberg lettuce, cheddar cheese, and salsa that could be mistaken for glorified ketchup.

Breakfast, brunch, lunch, and dinner are all options as well as late night socializing. From 11 pm onwards, Tequila Kitchen will serve botanas (the Mexican version of tapas) and a serious selection of premium tequila straight up or in cocktails.

Much like sake, it’s an alcohol linked to ethnic cuisine that perhaps in the past hasn’t gotten enough recognition for having a range of flavours, and for being deserving of appreciation beyond a way to get drunk. Flights of tequila will even be available for would-be connoisseurs to learn about agave.

FoodConnect got a sneak preview of the menu at a media dinner. First up was a Mexican version of hummus and pita—crisply toasted corn tortilla strips and a soft spread incorporating ricotta cheese. There are no plans at this time to put it on the regular menu, so I’m not exactly sure why then it was served to us, but I liked the way it readied the palate for more hearty flavours.

Black bean soup was simply and cleanly prepared, but had an unmistakable fresh quality that set it apart from a lot of would-be competition. Then it was on to lime-soaked halibut ceviche and wee round slices of octopus ceviche, which were much more tender than expected, particularly if you’re used to wrestling with slippery pieces of tako sushi.

Mini-quesadillas were stuffed with crab and mushroom, and then a platter with braised duck breast, lamb shank, and pork ribs was the main event. The touches that set apart Tequila Kitchen from the everyday were the little things: freshly made salsa and salsa verde, dishes of chopped habanero chilies to spice food up to individual preference, cactus salad (kind of like green beans in texture and taste), and fresh corn tortillas.

Executive chef Juan Gonzales admits there are some ingredients he simply can’t get in Canada, but they’re planning to plant items like wormwood to get around that.

The eager to please staff were noticeably nervous, but a few weeks in active duty may smooth away the jitters. There were a few rough edges with the food too, but a little tinkering appears to be all that’s required.

For now Tequila Kitchen is closed on Mondays. Lunch is 11:30 am-2:30 pm during the week, with brunch starting at 9 am on weekends. Dinner runs from 5-11 pm, with botanas and agave appreciation starting thereafter and expected to spill out to the patio when summer begins.

Tequila Kitchen
1043 Mainland (between Nelson and Helmcken)
Vancouver, BC
604.681.2120
www.tequilakitchen.ca

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